|
Preventive training means you try to prevent your dog
from exhibiting inappropriate behavior by keeping an
eye on him when he is with you, or by keeping him in
his crate or a puppy/dog-proofed area when you cannot
keep an eye on him.
The methodology behind this type of training is if
your dog does not get an opportunity to exhibit an unwanted
behavior, you do not have to modify his behavior or
use negative training methods. This type of training
requires more participation from the owner as far as
constant supervision and consistency, but in the long
run preventive training is far less stressful on both
owner and dog. This training method has two advantages:
1) sets you up immediately as the pack leader and 2)
expedites the bonding between you and your new friend.
If you bring your new puppy home and just turn him
loose in your house, in a matter of maybe five minutes
he will have carried off as much as he could stuff in
his little mouth, and chewed up what he could not.
On the other hand, if you chose to train in a preventive
manner, you would only allow your puppy or dog in the
room you are in and you would have a supply of proper
chew toys ready for him when the need arises. If you
catch him chewing on something he should not have, such
as your draperies, you would distract him by saying
"NO" in a very firm tone of voice and then offer him
a proper chew toy along with praise so he will associate
the praise with the appropriate chew toy. Remember dogs/puppies
understand about three tones of voice along with body
language and eye contact. For example:
- High-pitched, excitable tones would be very effective
for motivating your dog/puppy (for coming to you when
he is called or for heeling properly). This tone also
reminds him of his litter mates (this is why children
have a difficult time winning the respect of a dog/puppy,
since they sound like equals).
- Matter-of-fact tones are excellent for giving commands
to your dog/puppy (same tone as a bark - calm, direct,
no urgency).
- Lowered tones which would simulate a growl from
mom (which means whatever it is you are doing, stop
it now). Remember, yelling or striking your dog/puppy
will only confuse him and cause him to mistrust you.
Dogs/puppies do not understand being hit or grabbed.
They will only learn they cannot trust you or to fear
you. They will understand direct eye contact, tones
in your voice or your body language, so use it to your
advantage.
Direct eye contact can mean you are looking at your
dog lovingly and he will exchange your glance. Or when
giving a dog a good long stare in the eyes after he
has just jumped on you and you have told him "OFF" the
stare means "I mean business."
What about body language? Do you have a puppy who cowers
when you approach him, maybe even squats and urinates
just a little? You do not hit him, so why does he do
this? The way you move toward a dog can be a threat
in itself. Are you a lot bigger than the dog? Do you
move quickly? Do you bend towards him? Why not try to
encourage the dog to come to you, squat down on his
level so you are not so threatening; use a piece of
his dog food or a favorite toy to convince him to come
closer. Pet him when he gets very near you (do not reach
out), make sure you praise him for showing courage.
All too often people console their dog/puppy when he
shows signs of being frightened, which is a normal human
reaction. However, to a dog/or puppy, this only confirms
his fear. For example, your child drops a metal lid
from a cooking pan onto the hard surface of the kitchen
floor. Before you can blink an eye, your dog/puppy has
thrown himself under the nearest piece of furniture
shaking uncontrollably. Instead of pulling him out and
consoling him (which would be the same as saying to
your dog/puppy "It's okay to be afraid"), try enticing
him out with a treat, laugh, be positive. Your dog/puppy
will pick up on your mood. Show him he has nothing to
fear.
-------------------------------------------------
// ------------------------------------------------
Reprinted with permission by Ralston Purina
|
